The grapevine is one of nature’s true marvels. It is a plant that produces unique and characterful fruit under the most demanding of conditions, in fact, one that relishes the struggle.
We’ve seen it thrive on the volcanic slopes of Mt Etna, on the rugged schist of the Banyuls and the stern Limestone of Burgundy and the Jura. No other fruit tree possesses such rigour and force, such resilience and adaptability to its surroundings.
It is the wines that encapsulate this fighting spirit that we at Brawn enjoy the most. The wines we love and serve at the restaurant capture the energy of the parcel of land on which they were grown.
They are wines that have their own personalities, formed in the vineyard, in the cellar and in bottle – shaped by every step of their journey from a bud on the grapevine to the liquid in your glass.
We have found an amazing group of vignerons throughout the world that have translated the energy of their land into expressive, idiosyncratic wines and their work seems to be tied together by 3 key principles
Following organic and biodynamic principles in the vineyard.
These are farming methods that encourage the natural life in the soil and seek to foster biodiversity. Farming with a complete respect for their land’s energy and the forces of the cosmos, and a desire to harness this into the well being of their vines.
A gentle but highly considered approach in the cellar.
Once the fruit has been picked during summer every year, the juice will be taken into the cellar to begin its life as wine. The vignerons we love trust the quality of the fruit that they have spent the last 12 months growing under the above principles and as a result incorporate very little human intervention in the winemaking process.
They don’t add yeast, they don’t add enzymes, they don’t adjust flavour, acid or tannin and they don’t filter or fine the wines heavily. They might add a little dash of sulphur just before bottling but that’s it.
The wines we love capture the energy of the parcel of land on which they were grown
A respect for tradition.
For us, wine and food is deeply rooted in the traditions and cultures of a place. Respecting the age-old traditions of the winemaking region from which they are growing, and ignoring global fads or trends gives soul to a wine.
Wines with soul evoke emotions and take the drinker on a journey – and that can’t be faked. Wines that fit the mould of the above 3 principles are often called “natural” wines, “raw” wines, “real” wines or other meaningless sub-categories.
I am not anti this categorisation, but for us at Brawn they are simply wines, made the way wine should be made: and we absolutely love them. Here are 5 of our current favourite reds:
2014 “Les Pierres Noires”, Jean Maupertuis, Auvergne, France
Once upon a time the Auvergne region was one of France’s most productive and sought after wines regions. Now it has faded into obscurity, but there are still some incredible wines to be found here.
Jean Maupertuis farms the unique local variety Gamay d’Auvergne planted on soil made up of volcanic debris. Juicy, sour berries flirt with herbs and peppers and a tingly minerality from the volcanic soil makes you dive back in for more. Spring has sprung.
On the list at Brawn and the shelves at our great mates P-Franco in Clapton, London .
2013 Irancy “Les Ronces”, Vini viti Vinci, Burgundy, France
Burgundy is the home of the some of the most famous and sought after wines in the world. The Irancy appellation, right up in the north on the way to Chablis, isn’t quite so world-renowned and it’s these lesser known appellation that often offer the magic!
Nicolas Vauthier (Vini Viti Vinci) produces some seriously ethereal wines up here. This wine is a truly sublime expression of pinot noir. Vivacious, lifted and incredibly drinkable – and only 11%! A favourite of all the Brawn crew.
2014 “Oh!” Michel Guignier, Beaujolais, France
We have a big love affair with Gamay and its home, the Beaujolais. Guignier’s farming champions biodiversity. His vineyard is situated in the middle of a vast forest, which encourages a wide variety plant life – this is the key to beautifully balanced ripe fruit.
His vineyards are ploughed by horse and he fertilizers with the compost from cow droppings and the left-over grape skins from previous years. The result? Unhinged, vibrant, crunchy Beaujolais to wash down a big slice of terrine. We get this stuff from our brothers down at 40 Maltby St in Bermondsey.
2014 “La Luna”, Bruno Duchene, Banyuls, France
Bruno Duchene farms a tiny parcel of vines in the Banyuls, right on the Spain/France border. The vibe here is incredibly steep slopes, ancient schist soils and plenty of Mediterranean sunshine. What Duchene is able to produce here (a region known for heady, powerful sweet red wines) is remarkable – elegant, fruit driven, precise Grenache, with oodles of schisty energy.
2014 “Mascalisi”, Lamoresca, Sicily, Italy
Nerello Mascalese (or mascalisi in Sicilian dialect) is the powerful grape variety grown on the live volcano, Mt Etna, in Sicily. This is possibly my favourite region in the world for red wine.
The black, volcanic basalt into which the vines are planted give the wines a remarkable energy like no other. And this particular Nerello is one of my all time favourites. Filippo Rizzo has been somewhat of a mentor for me and his wines are absolute game-changers.
Brimming with ripe, pure, bold fruit, but always glued together with a tense acid streak: a marvellous accompaniment to spring lamb! Thanks to the legends at Tutto Wines for bringing this stuff to the UK.
Andy is responsible for all things vinous at East London’s Brawn. All wines listed are available at the restaurant as at April 2016.
